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Three jewelry items from Monsoon's Afghan line, set with rose quartz and amethyst.



  British company empowers women jewelers in Afghanistan


April 14, 2013


A collaboration between Pippa Small, a British jewelry designer and Monsoon, a U.K.-headquartered fashion company, aims to empower a group of women working in the jewelry crafts in Afghanistan.

The Afghan line includes four pieces: two necklaces, a pair of earrings and a bracelet, each set with rose quartz and amethyst. All will retail for below 50 pounds. They are being crafted by a group of five women working out of a workshop in the center of Kabul, the Afghani capital.

Afghanistan is a country that is rich in gemstones, among them emeralds, rubies, pink kunzites, tourmaline and amethyst. As a result, jewelry making is a time-honored tradition. But between 1998 and 2001, when the Taliban ruled over about 90 percent of Afghanistan, women were prohibited from working, not to mention gaining any education or training.

"We're trying to say Afghanistan isn't just about war and the Taliban," said Small, speaking to the Daily Telegraph. "There are other things going on. Wonderful things - skills, ability, amazing resources. And women being employed."

Small, whose jewelry is typically more pricey than that available in Monsoon, is popular with high-end buyers, including Nicole Kidman, Sophie Dahl and Uma Thurman. She brought the idea of an Afghani project to Monsoon.

Small's relationship with the war-torn country began in 2006 when she was introduced by a friend to the Turquoise Mountain Foundation, a school for traditional crafts set up in Kabul by British parliamentarian Rory Stewart, and backed by Britain's Prince Charles and Afghanistan President Hamid Karzai.

"One of the fantastic things is that each year a new generation graduates from Turquoise Mountain, and we want to make sure they have jobs because to do all that training and just end up at home would be a shame," Small told the Daily Telegraph.

Monsoon's Afghani line is produced by the Noor Jewelry Corporation, which buys and sells rough and cut precious stones and employs around 25 craftspeople, including women jewelry-makers. There are separate work spaces for members of each sex.

The amethysts are sourced from a mine in Badakhshan, in northeastern Afghanistan. Getting the stones to Kabul is no easy task, since the route to the mine passes through an area known for bandits.

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