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Figure 1 (click to enlarge) Courtesy of Luxeford Hong Kong Ltd

Figure 2 (click to enlarge)

  When gem colors blend

By the Gemewizard team
May 19, 2013

The whole is worth more than the sum of its parts, they say. Sometimes it is the way that different colored gems are blended and arranged in a piece of jewelry that inspires awe, with added elements of beauty revealed through the design. Indeed, often when one focuses solely on a jewel's physical attributes, those cosmic components of beauty are lost in the mix. Aesthetic excellence is frequently a meta-physical phenomenon, which cannot be explained easily using gemological terminology, but this month we will attempt to bridge the gap between the two.

We recently had the opportunity to analyze such an awe-inspiring item. The Luxeford Hong Kong Ltd auction house ( was planning on holding a sale between May 19 and May 22, 2013, and invited us to analyze one of the items from the sale in our newsletter. After browsing its marvelous array of gems, we found the masterpiece we were looking for.

The item we chose to analyze is an aquamarine, sapphire and diamond brooch, by the artist Catherine Sauvage (Figure 1). The brooch, made of 18K white gold in a floral design, is set with a large pear-shaped aquamarine, accented by pavé-set blue sapphires and brilliant-cut colorless and brown diamonds. It was the combination of the three colors that blended together in pleasant harmony as a light blue flower, which was the reason that led to the selection of the item.

For the analysis, we received the raw images of the brooch from the Luxeford auction house, which most closely resemble its actual colors. We then set the GemePro™ Sampler to scan the image selectively, in three different areas - the aquamarine, the sapphire and colorless diamond pave, and the brown diamonds. The resultant colors derived from the analysis were then placed on the GemeSquare™ 'square of colors' to find connections between the colors that may explain the overall harmony achieved.

As seen in Figure 2, the aquamarine analysis provided a Light, Very Slightly Grayish, Blue (22_3_3) color, while the blue sapphires gave us a range of violetish blue (23_3_2) hue, gradually fading from Light, Slightly Grayish (saturation level 2) to colorless (the diamonds area). The two colors are very close to each other, with their their tones and saturation virtually identical and only one hue separating them, thereby adding a gentle violetish tint. The brown diamonds analysis results showed Medium, Brownish, orange (5_5_1) color.

The overall appearance is of an orchid-like flower in a calm shade of blue. The fading effect seen in the petals of the flower is achieved by accurate selection of the darker violetish Blue sapphires at the center of the petal, and the gradually lighter-color sapphires surrounding it, right down to the colorless diamonds. The brownish orange softness and its location along the flower's stem are associated with a flowerpot soil, completing the floral appearance.

Eliciting emotions and feeling through a jewel's visual appearance required a designer with special talent, and that is something that Ms.Sauvage, the artist, definitely possesses.

If you have a magnificent gemstone or colored diamond and would like Gemewizard® to analyze it in one of its next Gem Color Reports, please contact us at

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