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The Royal Butterfly brooch by Cindy Chao.


The brooch as seen from the opposite side.

  Butterfly brooch at Smithsonian employs fluorescence to obtain extra fire


March 19, 2013


Jewelry artist Cindy Chao made history in February, when her butterfly brooch containing 2,328 gemstones became the first piece by a designer from Taiwan to be included in the famed mineral collection at the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C.

With a total weight of 77 carats, the so called Royal Butterfly brooch includes sapphires, rubies, diamonds and tsavorite garnets. The wings of the butterfly are particularly dramatic, with four diamond slices sitting atop a layer of pave-set diamonds, imitating the fine patterns and scintillation found on a real butterfly's wings.

A great deal of thought went into selecting the gems, with a variety of UV light-sensitive stones chosen. Some appear virtually colorless in daylight, but under ultraviolet light burn a bright blue or green, or even a fiery orange or red.

"The awe-inspiring array of colorful and glistening gems are indicative of Cindy Chao's masterful designs," said Jeff Post, curator of the museum's Gems and Minerals collection. "She has artfully combined design, gem and setting to create a unique, exquisite jeweled butterfly that we are delighted has fluttered from Taiwan into our National Gem Collection. It is a wonderful gift that I am sure will be immensely popular with our visitors."

Chao, 35, had intended becoming an interior designer, but her mother convinced her to concentrate on jewelry instead. After studying at the Gemological Institute of America in New York, Chao returned to Taiwan in 2004 and launched her own line. She struggled at first, but started to achieve success when she realized her flair for the avant-garde. "I had been doing conservative, traditional jewelry," she told W Magazine. "I knew that if I kept doing that, I wouldn't survive much longer in the market."

"I believe that a piece of jewelry can reflect the history of an era, and being inducted into a leading institution like the Smithsonian is a dream for any artist," said Chao.

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